Supercross BMX | Vision Idler Arm Assembly
Supercross BMX | Vision Idler Arm Assembly - Alt. T / - Spring Loaded w/ Wheel is backordered and will ship as soon as it is back in stock.
Delivery and Shipping
Delivery and Shipping
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Supercross BMX | Vision Idler Arm Assembly
Description
Description
The Supercross BMX Vision Idler Arm assembly is the direct Factory replacement for the Vision F1 and Vision RSX BMX Race Frames. It's a complete Assembly featuring: a 7075 Idler Arm, Delrin Chain Guide, alloy stop nut, Allen bolt, and washer.
Four Styles Available -
O.E. - Original Equipment - the Stock Replacement 7075 Aluminum Arm w/ Delrin Guide . This is the Lightest and Most Efficient Guide for your Vision Frame.
O.E. - Original Equipment LONG ARM - the Stock Replacement 7075 Aluminum Arm w/ Delrin Guide . This is the Lightest and Most Efficient Guide for your Vision Frame. This arm is 1" longer than the Stock Idler that comes with the frame , Race from Full Tilt Bikes specifically asked for this modification as he said it makes it easier for him to have a wider range of gear adjustments when doing the set ups.
Alt. - The Alternative - You have asked for it, so we are offering it to you, the Guide with a Wheel - We have tested it and found it not to be as efficient, and it is a more complicated set up, but if you want to try it, or think you want a wheel, we have it for you. Please be extra careful when setting up your guide with a wheel to ensure proper chain line. We have found that the chain will jump if you don't have it set up properly and it will cause the chain to come off.
The Team Edition - The Team Edition is heavier as it is a spring loaded idler, but now you never have to worry about re adjusting the back tension nut on the original guide for gear changes or removing a wheel, just push the idler up and you have slack, let the spring loaded idler down and you have perfect tension, every time. It also helps with any tight loose spots for out of round chain rings. This is the Ultimate idler upgrade.
Alt /T - The Alt /T Idler takes the Team Edition and ads the wheel. Again, we don't recommend the wheel system, the Guide is much more efficient, but if you want to have one that is available to you, it is here. Please be careful with your chainline. It is very finicky when running a wheeled system.
The Perkins Mod - The Perkins Mod has been worked out with superfast Dr.J - Justin Perkins and his Mad Scientist Father Mark Perkins to give you the Ultimate Idler. Mark always loved the idea of keeping the Idler up close to the Chainstay as recomended so that he would get the best Chainwrap, and he tried Wheels, he tried cages, and a few things to make it as frictionless as possible - Full F1 Technology being tested - Now with what we came up with him we introduce the new Perkins Mod - Dual Wheel S Bend Guide, with 3 spring tension settings. You have the wheels that everyone wanted for minimal rolling resistance but with the benefit of them being GUIDE WHEELS, so they allow the chain the smoothest and fastest path and have side guards so that there is no way the Chain will derail of the wheel, and... they are Teflon injection molded Delrin Guide material.
The Guide Block - If you have worn out your Idler Guideblock with a Mis alignment, too wide of a chain, or you just ride that much that you have put over a million revolutions on it and you need a new guide block. Now you can buy just the replacement block.
How to Set Up Your Idler the Right Way
I see this almost every weekend at the track. A rider rolls up on a Vision F1, F1x, or RSX, the bike looks clean, but the idler is set up wrong. Chain jumping at the gate. Chainline off. Watts left on the table. Most of the time it's a 60-second fix nobody ever showed them. So here it is — read it once, do it right, and don't think about it again.
1. Get the Idler as Close to the Chainstay as Possible
This is the first thing, and it's the thing most riders miss.
Your idler exists to do one job — keep as much of the chain wrapped around the rear cog as possible. More wrap means more teeth engaged. More teeth engaged means a stronger, more positive drive when you slam the pedals at the gate, and a chain that's far less likely to skip or jump under load.
When you mount the idler, run it as tight to the chainstay as the hardware will allow. Not centered in the slot. Not "looks about right." As close to the stay as it goes without the idler body or the chain touching the stay itself. That's where the wrap is maximized and that's where it belongs.
If you walked it back out into the middle of the slot the last time you cleaned the bike, fix that now.
2. Spring-Tension Idlers — Set the Tension to Match Your Riding
The spring-tension idlers are designed to be adjustable. That's the whole point. There is no single "correct" tension number that works for every rider, every gear, and every track.
A lighter rider on a smaller gear running smooth concrete tracks doesn't need the same tension as a heavier rider pushing a 44/16 over rough dirt with big jumps. Start with the spring set somewhere in the middle of its range and ride it. If the chain feels slappy or noisy through rough sections, add tension. If the bike feels like it's fighting you out of the gate, back tension off a touch. Dial it in to your weight, your gear, and the track you ride most.
Listen to the bike. It'll tell you what it wants.
3. Never Lock the Spring Out
Do not crank the spring all the way down so it's fully compressed and rigid. A locked-out spring takes all the give out of the system, and the second you hit a bump or load the chain hard at the gate, the chain has nowhere to absorb that energy. It skips. It jumps off the cog. Sometimes it derails entirely.
The spring needs to move. That's its job. Keep it inside its working range. If you've cranked it down so far that the idler feels solid in your fingers, you've gone too far. Back it off.
4. Always Use Blue Loctite on the Idler Bolt
Every time you replace the idler bolt — or pull it for any reason and put it back — put a drop of Blue Loctite on the threads. Not red. Blue.
Blue Loctite holds the bolt against the vibration of a BMX bike under hard riding, but it lets you back the bolt out again with normal hand tools when you need to service the idler. Red is permanent — don't use it here.
A five-second step that prevents a lost bolt at the worst possible moment. Don't skip it.
5. Get Your Chainline Straight — 45mm, Both Sides
The Vision F1, Vision F1x, and RSX are all designed around a 45mm chainline. That's the number to build to.
Front: Center of the bottom bracket to the center of the front chainring = 45mm.
Rear: Center of the rear hub to the center of the rear cog = 45mm.
When both numbers hit 45mm, the chain runs in a straight line from the front chainring back to the rear cog, through the idler, with no side-load fighting it. That's how the frame was designed to be ridden, and that's how you get every bit of power transferring without the chain trying to climb teeth or wear edges off the cog.
If your chainline is off — wrong cog spacer stack, wrong chainring offset, a swap to a non-stock crank or hub — the idler can't save you. Get the chainline right first, then set the idler.
The 60-Second Pre-Ride Check
Run through this every time you service the bike or swap an idler:
- Idler is as close to the chainstay as the hardware will allow.
- Spring tension set for your weight, your gear, your track — never locked out.
- Blue Loctite on the idler bolt anytime it goes back in.
- Chainline measures 45mm at the bottom bracket and 45mm at the rear hub.
Sixty seconds. Do it right, and the bike does what it was designed to do.
